To shoot indoors under typical gymnasium lighting, you often need f/2.0 or wider to get a shutter speed high enough to stop the action. Canon 300/4 ED IF AF (non-IS) After the first exposure in M mode, the camera throws an error saying Error please press the shutter button again. This looks to be an excellent lens with fantastic results. No telephoto lens, and no apochromat, is sufficiently corrected to accomodate such a wide spectral range. The Rokinon 135mm F/2.0 ED UMC lens is a fantastic companion for the Canon 60Da, as it offers a useful "mid-range" focal length for a variety of deep-sky projects. (purchased for $900), reviewed December 4th, 2006 Astrophotography is one of the ultimate tests of lens quality, as long exposure photography of deep-sky objects in space can highlight issues that are hidden during daytime photography. Still, what a time to be an enthusiast/photog, so many nice options. Lens hood - when I bought this lens years ago the included hood was rather cheap (perhaps Canon has updated the hood) by comparison with other hoods. Another drawback is the focal length. A con is that it really makes you rethink the use of your zoom lenses. Im a newbie at astro.. and photography in general really! Stuff I used to take the photos in this video:- The Canon 135mm f2 lens: https://amzn.to/346Paz7- Sony A7III Camera: https://amzn.to/2xM776q- Sony Grip exten. Does the bright star reflection bother you? The criterion I used in evaluating lenses was optical perfection with no reservations. Sharp without being harsh. Nice article for beginners.It's all in the eyes of the beholder. I used Canon's 135 f/2 for ten years. It could really use an update to its coatings. I was blown away when I loaded the photos into my computer. Nikon 300/4 ED IF, Sigma 50/2.8 DG Macro (not a telephoto, but good). I purchased this lens for the purposes of wide-field deep-sky astrophotography from my light-polluted backyard (shown below), and when traveling to a dark sky site. The 70-200L being a much more useful lens. The APO showed no chromatic aberration at all with the addition of the Astronomik UV/IR cut clip filter (passing 380-680nm), but the telephoto lenses, even when stopped down, showed a tight bright red ring around all stars. I bought this lens after reading your great review for my Nikon D5300. Some people do not like this and consider Bokeh to refer only to the rendering of out of focus points of light. Rokinon FE14M-C Lens. Reducing aperture with the built-in aperture iris interferes with the light path, and results in eight diffraction spikes around bright star images. I actually have to walk 1/2 way up the stairs to be able get folk in the frame. In the highest contrast situations there's a hint of both purple and green fringing but both are minor and easy to remove with software. Write your own user review for this lens. Finally, to prevent image shift during exposure, all telephoto lenses must be supported at two points: at the camera end, and at the far end with a large retaining ring. We were very impressed with X-T5's 40-megapixel APS-C sensor, check out some full resolution images! He has quite a breadth photos many of which are quite good. However, I find the process tedious, and prefer single, manually guided, long exposures which seem to have deeper colors. He loves photography, and runs a YouTube channel with tutorials, lens reviews and photography inspiration. Just like the above samples, most are just bad. At 135mm, you can get really creative about the object or objects you shoot and where you position them within the frame. Barney and Chris have been shooting the new Sony 50mm F1.4 GM, and we have a bunch of full resolution samples for you to peruse. However, when my Canon "L" lenses are used at f8 they are all very sharp and the 135L does not blow the others away. Got it! I have found myself shooting wide open almost all the time. Sharp but smooth at the same time. Add To Cart. What you need to know is the author is a hobbyist and hands his images over to px500, the bottom of the barrel so of course he is impressed, he doesnt use top flight gear day in, day out to earn his pay. The 50mm f/1.4 and f/1.2 is another story.While the 135mm f/2, in general, is a good lens, there are lots of lenses other than the 135 f/2 that will produce a very smoothly blurred background, including zoom lenses.It sounds like Micael is new to photography.Just my impression from this article. CANON LENS FOR ASTROPHOTOGRAPHY. Any experience with this camera and would this lens be a good fit? Why take a step back from 250 to sit between the RedCat and the 24-105? Jordan has a simple fix camera manufacturers could implement to improve their video autofocus. Fast. The combination of a wide aperture and very little light lost in transmission makes very high shutter speeds possible. (purchased for $860), reviewed March 9th, 2017 Its fast f/2.0 maximum aperture is effective in low light and enables shallow depth of field control. The Rokinon 135mm F2.0 is considered to be a full-frame lens because it can accommodate a full-frame image sensor with its 18.8-degree angle of view. I enjoied the use of this lens many years before the DSLR. Great lens, but I can't understand why Canon can't control quality. These lenses go about as close as you could get without a dedicated macro lens. The author's recipe for a good photo is:1) Just shoot blindly, with no regard to what's in the frame, because the lens will blur away everything on the background.2) If (1) does not work, just head on to https://www.bhphotovideo.com, download a jpg of the lens you were using, and photoshop it on top of the taillaits of the passig car that didn't get blurred out enough.3?) If you can tolerate vignetting, there are many normal 35mm lenses that are great wide open. It also focuses really fast and accurate and is light. It is a parade of photos that should have been galled out after a boring Sunday afternoon shoot of "Think I'll bring along a camera when I walk the dog", There are so many things wrong in this 'review' -- most of all the idea that 'you' should get this lens and somehow it magically makes the duck or the cat stuck right in the center of picture a great photo! Sure, that would be swellbut it doesn't matter with regard to how it performs. This image of NGC 7000 was done at F/4 at iso 800 with a Canon 20D mod. (For Nikon users there's the new 105mm too.). With a good smartphone, some creative legwork, and the photos scaled down as they are in this article you can make photos that at least just as good. But ppl should know there is much better advice in the forums. http://www.idyll.com/laney2014 Trully sharp accross whole frame from f2 on 5d. Most small refracting telescopes start in the 300 to 400 mm focal length range, and even these are classed as widefield telescopes. Sigma 105/2.8 DG EX Macro (very sharp at infinity) Well, after lugging that lens around for years, I'm experimenting with adding the 135L back to my kit. SIx months on from buying it this has become my favourite lens ever, beating my previous favourite (Leica's 4th version of the 35mm Summicron for its M-series rangefinders). This has several advantages from less demanding tracking accuracy, to being able to use a lower ISO setting. In 3 months I got loosy focus ring. Rokinon 135mm F/2.0 ED UMC LensCheck Price (Amazon): https://amzn.to/2MOUFeOExample Images: https://astrobackyard.com/rokinon-135mm-f2-astrophotography/I've . This photo was captured with the Samyang 135mm F/2 lens using a UV/IR cut filter and a QHY168C dedicated astronomy camera. In this post, Ill share my results using an affordable prime telephoto lens for astrophotography, the Rokinon 135mm F/2.0 ED UMC. Lenses with extreme sharpness and bokeh tend to be heavy. But even better BOKEH is the SAL-135F2.8F4.5 STF (Smooth Trans Focus ) which has even better BOKEH, albeit a manual focus lens. Here are our top picks for the canon lenses for astrophotography. The flat lens hood is great for taking flat frames after a night of astrophotography. A single, 90-second exposure using the Rokinon 135mm F/2.0 ED UMC at F/4. Not heavy like the white tele-zooms. it is crisp, fast, and awsome. The second best, is the Hoya Pro One Digital MC UV(0) filter. I was very happy for this reason to eventually get a full frame DSLR in 2007 and sell the 85mm lens and buy a 105mm one to replace it. The 70-200 f2.8 L2 and he 400f5.6 will however set you back way more than $1.100. MCovington, my Zeiss 300/4 is the full thickness barrel version, made in West Germany, serial number 5990836. The image below highlights the creative freedom this lens provides. I have used and still use the 135MM F/2 l lens. Based on my handful of experiences with this lens in the backyard, I have found these traits to hold true. This way the focus will favor the red light which is more objectionable within a star image than a bit of blue. Big F-value.Light. Pleiades (M45) Orion Nebula (M42) Carina Nebula (shown below) North American Nebula; Heart and Soul Nebula (IC 1805 / IC 1848) It is really thanks to another commentator pointing out something that finally makes sense out of this mess: This article is by someone who just got his first first telephoto ever, and is writing about how he feels when he is trying it out. The 5D's larger pixels also make chromatic aberration somewhat lower at most apertures. There is no doubt that the 135L deserves it excellent reputation for image quality. What's it got and what's it like to use? however i started to realise how every subject might actually be a cardboard cutout being photographed. As you'd expect from a premium prime lens, both maximum and average chromatic aberration is very low across the aperture range, with the maximum CA on the order of 0.02% of frame height regardless of aperture. OTOH you can now get a 70-180 f2.8 zoom that weights virtually the same and is only a tiny bit longer (Tamron's on E mount, like 20mm longer than the AF SY or most other modern 135s), and there's lighter than ever 85/1.4s (eg Sigma's DN for L/E mount) that can achieve a very similar look while coming in at 600g, tho at an even higher price. This lens is available for several camera mounts, including Nikon, Sony, Pentax, Samsung, and Fuji. One difference worth pointing out is for those who image using narrowband filters. The Nikon D810A, however, is modified for astrophotography out of the box. But do some experimenting before you decide. Juksu, your point is well taken. Super sharp from f2. Otherwise this lens is absolutely incredible. Light weight and robust. This is a fully manual lens, meaning that it does not have autofocus, and you must manually select the f-stop using the aperture ring at the base of the lens. Definitely now on my to-buy list. (Suggesting that diffraction limiting is only part of the story with lens softness at tiny apertures.). But I would argue that a 135mm F2 lens produces even greater bokeh, thanks to the long focal length that compresses the background far more than the 85mm lens. As you'd expect though, distortion and light falloff are both higher with a full-frame image circle, but perhaps not as much as you'd normally expect. One of Canon's best lenses for a reasonable price. USM works so quickly and accurately, it puts my 24-70/f2.8L to shame. I own Samyang 135 f2 for Nikon Mount and indeed it is incredible value lens. It seems they are now quite comparable in quality to prime lenses. The flat lens hood design allows you to easily take flat frames with the Rokinon 135mm using the white t-shirt method or using a flat panel. You might never need another lens in the overlapping range at 135mm there isn't much difference between the separation afforded by f/2 vs f/2.8, and the latest 70-200s are plenty sharp. Find out what happens when Chris shoots some very expired APS film using old Canon and Nikon cameras. Focusing should be done on moderately bright stars using the 10x magnified Live View. Most of the available 135mm F2 lenses have a very short minimum focusing distance in relation to the focal length, creating a magnification ratio of around 0.2 - 0.25. I have the Canon 135 f/2 and loved it from day one. Generally, prime lenses have a reputation for being slightly sharper, and I have found that to be true whether I am shooting a nebula or a Scarlet Tanager. Large emission nebulae like the California Nebula (pictured below) are a great choice for this focal length. However, as I have no actual experience with the Baader filter, I would suggest that you consult other members on the particular APO - Baader filter combination you have in mind. reviewed August 2nd, 2017 Bond, I expect you to buy! Pentax seems to have put more emphasis than others on keeping the resolution uniform all over the field. Perhaps I missed it, but did you use a clip-in light pollution filter with your 60D and this lens? The lens has 14 stops when turning the aperture. Target for bortle 9 astrophotography? http://www.flickr.com/photos/tbrigham/284303834/. One of the prime examples of such a design is the "nifty fifty"the 50mm F1.8 lens construction that many lens manufacturers provide. This lens is available on Amazon for most camera bodies.

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